Training Journal – 1/7/19 – 1/13/19

Monday

Spin Bike, 2 hours

Tuesday

Bouldering @ Movement 2 hours

A frustrating day, not very focused. Decided to try to top all the V5’s in the gym – got maybe all of theme except two. Not in the best mood.

Wednesday

Sick.

Severe bowel problems. Either laid up in bed or on the pot. Got maybe a protein drink down and a packet of Ramen. Food poisoning I waged.

Thursday

Off. Really bummed about this day, as Peter and I had plans to get out on the flatties, and that’s always a thrill.

Felt pretty much fine by 10:00pm – the change was incredibly swift. Hopefully I have been cleansed!

Friday

Bouldering @ Movement, 2 hours

And like the phoenix, I have risen! Kinda.

Felt particularly petty today, so tried to re-do my challenge of, Every V5 in the Gym (I counted 15 of ’em), which today felt like a warmup. All went down in one, or just a few tries and that was that. Still feeling a bit gingerly, albeit aimless, I reclimbed 4 V6’s and called it a good day.

It’s still recent enough that doing every V3 in the gym seemed to be a note-worthy thing to try and complete, so I’m stoked that this has been bumped to V5. I can climb harder, sure – but the consistency of doing every single problem of a grade is really something I focus on (more than pure power/strength), since I’m not like: going to qualify for the Bouldering World Cup anytime soon.

Knowing that I can be up on a climb, 5.12 or lower and have a toolbox of technical moves to call upon is nice piece of mind. And I can crimp pretty alright for someone pushing 180lbs is you know: okay as well.

Core Work

Balance Board Work

I’m mainly focusing on one-legged flexion/dorsiflexion, in an attempt to harden my left ankle which seems to enjoy giving me unrelenting chronic pain. I’m up to three sets of 50 at a very slow, and controlled pace, barefoot on a concrete surface. It seems to be helping whatever tendon is loosey-goosey down there.

I meant to bring shoes to do the spin bike machine, but I forgot them, having ridden in boots to work with the sloppy conditions outside. D’oh!

Saturday

Spin Bike, 2 hours

Balance Board Work

Sunday

Boulder @Movement, 2 hours (+3 routes)

Unlike Friday’s, “see how many routes  you can do”, today I just focused on one. Today’s challenge was to try to start working, and send a V6 on the 45 degree wall, something I’ve never come close to doing. The problem I had in mind looked mostly like a crimp ladder, made up of wide, shallow pockets. So, some of the holds can’t easily be crimped, and precision is very important. Footholds are there, but not the best.

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Start was a bit tricky for me/my height, and it took a while to suss it out in a way I liked. The final 2/3rds, while pumpy, seemed to go pretty smoothly, as long as you hit the holds well. In the end, I got too tired to put everything together, but I was happy to give the challenge a try, and I’m fairly positive I’ll get it sent next around. Feeling in general, really strong.

Afterwards, I worked on the V3 slab problem. In past attempts, I couldn’t get past the first move, but today it took just a few attempts.

I was out of things I really wanted to work on, so I wandered to the cave, just to do laps on a V4 I’ve wired. After finishing the problem, I’d try to climb any other route (with limited success) in an attempt to build some endurance. I started talking to someone else that asked if I had my harness with me (I did), so we went out and did a few routes to end the day. Ended the day particularly pumped. Good stuff.

Balance Board Work

This is the third day in the row of doing the one-legged dorsiflexion work, and today I did 4 sets of 50. I honestly don’t know how stronger I can realistically make an ankle or how much time daily I want to indulge in this one PT exercise, but I guess, if it continues to make (tiny) positive differences, I’ll keep doing it. I may switch/add some twisting exercises utilizing a bosu ball and tossing things to myself – maybe even juggle a few sacks or something.

 

A somewhat lame week – getting sick is hard to come back from, when all the real-world things you miss back up. I’m glad that it was simply 2 days off, but I missed a lot of riding/running that I would have liked to get done. But, what can you do sometimes.

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