Training Journal 11/12/18- 11/18/18

Monday

Climbing @ Movement, 2+ hours

Not the best day for me, but still not the worst. Met up with Zach to climb on lead a bit. Felt pretty sleep-deprived and foggy. Managed to lead a 5.12a clean and fall all over the 5.12c I was so close in topping out last week. Still feeling Saturday, but it’s a journey, not a destination, and I’m sure the next time I’m on the sharp end, I’ll feel much better – I’ll rest up well before then.

Tuesday

Bike Ride up Chapman to the Gregory Canyon TH

This idea was fraught with problems. It recently snowed a few days ago, but I was confident that the road would be packed down enough to make riding doable. How wrong I was. The plowing of the bike path up Boulder Canyon ended curiously about halfway to where it turns to gravel. After that, it was only packed down a bit by hikers and other adventurous cyclists.

Chapman wasn’t any real different, except there was a ski track of dubious quality to avoid. Most of my time on the bike once out of town was off the bike, pushing. I thought once at the end of the road, at least the downhill on Flagstaff would be easy and quick, but even Flagstaff didn’t seem to be properly plowed! Little traffic on the road, but still a somewhat wet experience getting to the TH.

Green Mountain

Quick stomp up to the summit on a pretty well-covered trail. Sure felt that approach, “ride”! Bumped into Jeff would was flying up and down in comparison to me. On the summit, donned my spikes, and tried my best to give it a little more go-power getting down.

Wednesday

Climbing + Bouldering @ Movement

Climbed with Zach, pretty fast warmup for me, but Zach is just a much stronger climber than me, as well. Fell on a new 5.11.b that goes right up the lead wall – just getting pumped (the holds are huge!). Hopefully, that type of endurance will come around, one of these days. Could have moved faster, could have had better footwork – we’ll see next time I’m on that wall.

Worked on the 5.12c a bit more – got back to just one fall on TR. That route will be up for months, so I could try to get it clean on TR, and work it on lead. That would be a nice send for me!

Afterwards, bouldered a bit, but pretty crushed from the climbing sess

Spin Bike, 1 hour

Core Work

Oh, man: found the Armaid in the Cardboard Box of Stuff in the workout room, and used it on my lower left leg. An ankle problem from a bouldering fall keeps me in chronic pain in my ankle, but woo boy: using the Armaid on my lower leg sure seemed to have helped.

Lots of tension/what have you around the peroneus (guessing) on the left leg that’s not on the right (measured by the  difference in amount of tears shed between left and right while working the Armaid). Don’t know if that’s a symptom of a much large problem, or the problem itself.  May have to invest in one of these for myself!

Thursday

Spin Bike? at Movement

Pretty sure I did a spin bike sess. – at least an hour, if not two. Cannot exactly remember, which sounds completely ridiculous. Remembered I should have gone outside, as it was a beautiful day, but work got in the way, so just went after dinner, and closed the place down.

Friday

Climbing @ Movement, Bouldering

Chill sess. with Martha – didn’t work on my 5.12c proj., but topped out on the 5.11b on the lead wall, which is (sadly) my hardest send on the steepest face of the gym. But, happy enough to get it done. Did another 5.11b I’ve never sent cleanly – even on TR, so a good, if condensed sess. Afterwards, bouldered for a little while, mostly on the overhanging wall.

Later, a quick hike in Chautauqua to just check out conditions of the Flatirons, but then it snowed beginning later that night, so oh well.

Saturday

Run/Spin/Run

Ran the 3 miles to the gym, spinned for two hours, ran the 3 miles home. Good way to get 3 hours of cardio in.

Sunday

Bouldering @ Movement

Good bouldering sess. Finished up a V6 I started working on on Friday but just was too tired to finish then. Hard climb, with thin holds and good flow. Not quite at my limit, but definitely challenging. Then, flashed another V6, which sounds ridiculous, so I’m guessing that climb is just a bit inflated.

Afterwards, started sessioning a V7 on the overhanging wall, which isn’t something I thought I’d  ever say, even three months ago. Feel like I can put all the pieces together and send it: big, good-to-OK holds and big moves usually play to my strengths, no matter the steepness of the route. I need a little more stability in my shoulders during those really wide, compression moves, though. Pretty close!

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