Training Journal 10/29/18 – 11/04/18

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Bouldering @ Movement, one hour

Fairly lackluster session, but kinda of to be expected, as I was tired from my three day tour, and a little bit of bouldering the day before. Still, wanted to get out there, regardless.




Bouldering @ Movement, two+ hours

Much better session today, as I was fully rested up. Managed to get up three new V7’s, which is a personal best for me, so I’m happy. Problems were either on very small holds, or slopers on vertical or barely overhanging walls. Stayed pretty much away from the 45 degree wall, and just dabbled in the cave. There’s a V6 I’d like to work on in the cave that seems pretty straightforward, but would be quite the endurance test for me. But, I think it’s doable, even though I’ve never done a V6 in the cave.


Rest. Lazy bones here, I’m not happy with myself.


Climbing @ Movement

Good session with Nolan – got up around five 5.12b’s, but still working on doing most of them cleanly. Still, quite a few in a sess. Most of the rest of the day was spent on the lead wall (overhanging) doing a few mid/high 5.10’s. There was a 5.11 I missed seeing that I’ll hit up next time I’m on lead. Climbing endurance seems to be coming around, surprisingly!

Green Mountain via Freeway

Felt pretty terrible in performance, but got my lazy butt up Green Mountain, via Freeway. Arms were pretty worked from the session.



I don’t think I even left the house. I spent most of the day editing footage from my Pikes Peak trip. Of course, as soon as I finished the work, the hard drive everything was saved died on me, so I might have either lost all the work, or will need to pay big bucks to retrieve it. I’m weighing my options…

Was going to opt. to join my buddy’s Troy and Zach on their Flatiron Top Ten in a Day project – at least the tail end, but it started raining/hailing/snowing on them after doing just the Matron, so they bailed and I lost most all motivation to get out, myself.


Boulder @ Movement, 3 hours

Oh, what a terrible session, number-wise. Spent most of my time on just two problems, a tricky V5 and a trickier V3 – neither of which I topped. Great setting, as usual at Movement, I just couldn’t get up the things.

The V5 started on bad crimps on the 45 degree wall, before turning a corner on slopers. The key is to (well, I think the key is…) good footwork. I stopped attempting the problem, after I believe I unlocked the sequence, but was too tired to complete it – that happens a lot in Bouldering.

The V3 wasn’t much of anything but a crimpy, balance-y problem, but at a rating of V3, it felt severely sandbagged. The first difficulty was a match on what looks to be a good foothold, but just simply isn’t, then a series of moves on good crimps and bad feet. The last move to the lip continually stymied me, as the starting hold my foot was on kept spinning as I made the reach, which was so frustrating, I was screaming obscenities throughout the gym. Not that I’m proud of that. After that happened twice in a row, I gave up for the day – I felt the starting twinge of some sort of tendonopathy in my right elbow, and I didn’t want to inflame that too much.

Core work

Progression is getting nice – I can now do three sets of three of hanging windshield wipers, which is fun, and ultimately useless except for bragging rights (my obliques look very Adonis Belt-ish)

Spin bike, 2 hours

What a defeat – I’m not a spin bike enthusiast, but I feel this is better than nothing. I feel fairly out of form aerobic-wise, having focused so much on training for climbing, as of recent.



Somewhat of a lopsided week. Climbing was good in all, but I didn’t even begin to reach my goals, endurance-wise. Now, with daylight savings upon us, I fear I’ll lose even more motivation, as the lack of daylight really hits me hard.

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