4/6 – 4/7 – climbing @ Turkey Rocks
Crack climbing. Offwidth crack climbing. Much cursing.
On the second day, we went over to Turkey Rock which is a much more complicated mess of a place. We couldn’t decide on a route to do or really which route was which, and I did a little wandering about, until I found a cave and a dropped biner inside that has now made a fine addition to my keychain.
I attempted to lead P1 of Nighttime Madness, but got spooked at the final, flaring, offwidth, overhanging (set on fire, full of alligators – whatever) crack. So I did the sneak to the left, and climbed a pretty mellow, slabby thing, that I barely protected, because I was out of useable gear and it felt free-solo-easy.
The kink in the route, and my lack of knowledge on how best to deal with it, even with my partner’s advice caused immense rope drag, which was a bummer. I made an anchor at the top, she followed me up, and we traversed to a bolted anchor to the east, where we set up a top rope to play with and we then climbed Jumpstart (5.9) and Vanishing Point (5.10d), both which were much fun. Jumpstart’s crux is very low, and probably easy to protect, but you need some flexibility in your legs. Vanishing Point’s crack goes to fingers, with few face holds, until, well, vanishing at the top, until you get an easy fist crack to the bolts.
And that sadly, ended Day #2. One of the problems we decided we needed to work on was just being prepared, when in such a confusing area: we didn’t have a guidebook, so figuring out what climbs are what was a time burner for sure. We did though bring a hatchet for camping, which provided much utility and entertainment.
4/8 – jog
We left Turkey Rocks Wednesday somewhat late and I think we were both pretty tired, so I just took a little job around the neighborhood with my Lady.