Monday, Oct 26 2015 – Bouldering @ Movement
Good boulder sess. today – very quick warmup of some V0’s and V1’s, which mutated into playing One Less Hold on some V1s until that got boring. Then I moved over to a V5 project I was working on a bit. Managed to send that problem. My issue was a fussy and reachy hold with bad feet. Try as I might, I could never find really great feet, so I just focused on getting the best grip on the key hold. Once I was able to do that, the rest of the problem was easy.
Moved on to the 45 degree overhanging wall to a V4. This wall is not one of my strengths, as I’m pretty heavy, and pretty weak. Good to work on your weaknesses, yeah? The problem starts off with a pretty easy traverse right with plenty of feet, then goes up on crimps. I wasn’t able to finish the problem, but made a lot more headway than I ever had, so that was a win. One of the problems was that I needed to be accurate with where I was initially catching the crimpy small holds, the other issue is that I had to pivot as much as I could, to make the reach as little as possible and have my body as much into the wall as I could. Still felt awkward, but I surprised myself enough, that if I had another fresh go, I could probably finish the last two moves. Sadly, I think the wall is being reset tomorrow.
After that, tried another V5, this one almost on slab. It uses a corner as a hold for your left hand, then a pinch to your right. Then, you’re just left with pretty small chips for feet and hands, and a traverse to the right to finish it all up. I worked on this one a little but with another, stronger climber, but neither of us could figure it out, although since we were both of similar heights and ape indexes, we were both hoping to steal each other’s beta. Alas.
I ended the two hours sess. with another bouldering game: This time picking some easy routes on the 45 degree overhanging wall, and purposely cutting my feet on every move. Very tiring, but I was able to fit a few sets in of doing that and left the gym pretty toasted.
